Caulking Old Wood Siding

Think of a wood home as a living thing.

Caulking old wood siding.

On most new homes the trim goes up after the siding is installed which creates a large gap that should not be caulked. Score the cut line with the utility knife guided by a square. We used a high quality acrylic caulk on our barn to seal the corner joints seams and trim pieces around doors and windows. The hole should be about 3 16 of an inch for most caulking joints.

Be sure to remove any caulk where the siding overlaps as old houses need to breathe. Siding is often textured and if you slide the tip of the tube along the bumpy texture the bead of caulk will. Fill any dents and holes with either a wood or epoxy filler. The siding expands and contracts with temperature and humidity.

Line up the ends and using the old piece as a guide mark the new clapboard with a utility knife. When you try to restrict either it is at your peril. In the old days the builder would install the trim bring the siding up to it and caulk the corner. It needs to move and breathe.

Most other areas were caulk is necessary should be lightly smoothed with your finger. Caulking on the exterior siding joints at the corner board if done carefully does not need to be smoothed with a finger. Apply an epoxy consolidant to soft wood and coat the rest with. Trim boards that sit on top the siding.

It has a similar lifespan of 20 30 years and at the end of that time it can be removed without damaging the wood. Place a full length piece of the damaged siding on the face of the replacement. Many professionals like those at james hardie also agree that you should not use caulk on fiber cement siding unless there is no metal flashing underneath. When it comes to things like old windows traditional glazing putty is a much better choice.

Caulk by its adhesive nature will try to limit this movement leading to widespread failure and cracking in the caulk over time. Even an old outbuilding can benefit from a little caulking. Scoring prevents the wood from chipping when you cut it. Pull out loose nails and renail using stainless steel siding nails.

Removing all the silicone is difficult to accomplish as there is almost always some residue and when you remove it from wood it inevitably grips onto the wood fibers and pulls them with it resulting in a mutilated work piece that requires lots of repair. Caulk prevents water from seeping behind vulnerable areas of the outbuilding and developing into rot.